I have received a few questions lately about what parts of the eye are which, and I thought it would be a good time to re-post this diagram I made last year that I hope is helpful. I always call out where I put each product for every look (because unfortunately, I don’t have time to do a tutorial every time), and when I do, I use the same names for each part of the eye that it is applied to.
Brow Bone/Highlight: Generally, a lighter color will be applied to this area; it may be something that has undertones of bolder colors used on the lid, or it may simply be similar to your skintone. For example, say I do a predominantly green look, I might turn to MAC’s Gorgeous Gold eyeshadow as a highlight color because it will bring out the greens and still allow the color to taper off. Some of my favorite highlight colors are Ricepaper and Shroom.
Above Crease: This is my “blend out” area. There is strong color on the lid and the crease many times, and that strong color needs to be diffused as it moves it way upwards towards the brow. The best way to think about it is as a gradient, going from dark to light, starting on the lid moving towards the brow. Sometimes I use a lighter color than the one I used on my lid to help fade the color upwards, other times I may use the same color I chose for a highlight.
Outer Crease: Luckily my eye was lookin’ a bit tired, because you can really make out the “crease,” which is that fold of skin/wrinkle-like detail you can see. It extends from the beginning of your eye (inside) to the end of your eye (the outside). Most often I deposit color in the outer crease, but sometimes I do bring it inward a touch, more to the “middle” of the crease. I rarely go for darkening the entire length of my crease. A great universal crease color is Carbon, if used lightly, it can darken any look instantly. Soft Brown is also a nice, subtler shade.
Inner Lid: I mentally slice my eyelid into three parts–basically into thirds. There is the inner, middle, and outer thirds. In many looks you will see, a lighter color is put on the inner lid relative to the rest of the colors found on the lid.
Middle of Lid: This is the middle third of the eyelid, and since I typically do similar styles in my looks, this is where a “medium” color in terms of darkness would go. Light, medium, dark is a good way to think of how I deposit and choose what colors go where on the lid. On occasion, I might go medium, light, dark, but not nearly as frequently as I do the former.
Outer Lid: This is the outer third of the eyelid, and this is usually where I put the darkest lid color. Sometimes I will darken the very outermost portion of it (say you split the outer lid third into half, so then it’d be the outer half or the outer sixth of the entire lid) with the same color I would put in my crease.
Upper Lash Line: It is not explicitly labeled in this diagram, but it is where your upper lashes (generally the longest ones, the ones that come from your eyelid) meet your eyelid. This is the actual upper lash line. When lining the upper lash line, many create thicker lines than the natural upper lash line, but the concept is still there.
Upper Waterline: The upper waterline is also not explicitly labeled, but it can be found directly underneath your upper lashes. If you looked up, you would see a tiny bit of space, much like your lower line, and some people line this as well. It is called tightlining, for your reference.
Lower Waterline: The lower waterline is sometimes called the lower rim, because it is essentially the bottom rim of your eye. There are dozens of people who cannot put product on their waterline due to sensitivity, and many others who struggle to find a product that does not fade or dissolve because of the waterline (and the fact that it is…watery!). For those looking for longer lasting products, I know many use gel liners, fluidliners, and some even use liquidlast liners.
Inner Lower Lash Line: Not everyone likes to put color on the lower lash line, which is space directly below the lower waterline. Some prefer just a thin line of eyeliner that expands across both the inner and outer lower lash lines. I often use the 219 brush to apply pops of color; usually, a lighter color that is similar to the colors used on the lids is applied to the inner lower lash line.
Outer Lower Lash Line: Similarly to the inner lower lash line, I again apply a thin line of color using the 219 to the outer lower lash line. There are times where I might even split the lower lash line into thirds, and it just means that there is a middle part of the lower lash line for application. When it comes to smoky eyes, to “smoke out” the look, one applies a darker color to the outer lower lash line or goes for thicker eyeliner and smudges it out around the outer lower lash line.
Upper Lashes: They are not labeled, but I do hope that the majority know where to find these (though explained earlier!). Most makeup users will apply at least one coat of mascara in either brown or black. Brown mascara is more natural and less dramatic, while black can still be natural, but too many coats or using an amplifing mascara will give you dramatic lashes (but hey, I always want these, so there’s no shame in never going au natural on the lashes!). I look up and bring the wand closest to the roots of the lashes and comb it upwards. Sometimes I wiggle, sometimes I turn the brush as I move upwards – it just depends on the mascara.
Lower Lashes: These are the shorter lashes found beneath your eyeball. I always like to give them a quick coat of mascara after I finish doing my upper lashes, because then they’re blacker and stand out a touch. The best way I’ve found to apply mascara to the lower lashes is to use a mascara wand that is not huge and burly – it is a small space, and why do you want to get mascara all over your face? Since I do not even need a super duper mascara, I may use a lesser, but still black, mascara to coat them. Look up and lightly tap the mascara wand to the lashes. I usually just move the wand from side to side, rather than up and down like my upper lashes because I find it coats them to deepen color, slightly lengthen, and that’s all I need.
Temptalia - Christine
Smoky eyes have been a popular style for quite awhile now and this trend doesn’t look like it will fade anytime soon. Proper blending is the key to getting the best smoky eye look. You should blend the colors of your makeup flawlessly. Rich dark colors should be paired with light base colors.
Start with the eye makeup first before applying foundation. It’s easier to clean up any fallen shadow without messing up your entire makeup. Then apply concealer which suits best for you. Apply your eyeliner perectly. Apply your base eyeshadow all over the upper eyelid. Blend well with a base brush. Smudge both lashlines with a cotton swab or an eyeliner brush.
Blend in color on bottom lashes for color on the bottom. You can also apply a bit of shadow to get full smudge effect. Blend in darker color, but keep dark color below the crease. Now that you have the base & eyeliner on, it’s time to get the smoky effect. You need a darker eyeshadow shade. Using an eyeshadow brush blend in color starting at your lash line & blending up. Make sure to blend color into the lash line so the eye liner disappears. Stop deep color at crease.
The crease is very important to the smokey eye and it needs special attention. With a taupe colored shadow, or a mixture of gray and brown, pick up a small amount, and work it into the crease area. Continue until the area is well defined, with lots of attention to the blending process. Remember, the look we are after is smokey.
When it comes to makeup lasting all day, the fall and winter offer the best months since you don’t have to worry about mascara and eyeliner melting off of your face or coming off in the pool. Fall/winter is also the time when you’ll be able to experiment more with gorgeous autumnal colors and the classic smokey eye look. As for lips, you’ll want to find the right shade of red so you can complete your seasonal look.
Moving past the general advice, the fall and winter makeup trends for 2011 are shaping up to be bold, sweet, soft and sexy. But before you can complete this year’s trends, you’ll need the basic tools of the trade like foundation, concealer, blush, eye shadows in natural shades, lipstick, lip gloss, brow pencil or powder, and of course mascara. Assuming you have all of this, keep reading the makeup trends for fall and winter 2011, and decide what will be your go-to look.
Makeup Trends in Fall/Winter 2011Soft Makeup TrendOne of the trends for fall/winter 2011 is something everyone should be familiar with because it’s been popping up more and more amongst women and teenage girls. The look is nude, and it is a hot look for fall and winter, as well as timeless and traditional for those low maintenance days. To achieve a nude look, you’ll need clean and healthy skin that is nearly flawless. Fortunately, it’s easy to pull off a nude look if you have the correct concealer and foundation for your skin’s complexion.
If you plan on going to any holiday parties, try using iridescent pink, define your eyebrows with an eyebrow pencil or powder, and highlight your cheekbones. But don’t overpower the look with heavy mascara; instead, try using brown mascara rather than black. In regards to lips, you can use a nude lip color, or opt for a light red color.
Bold Makeup TrendIf you were born with big beautiful eyebrows, then this is your year to shine. Strong, thick, and perfectly defined eyebrows are going to be a major trend for fall and winter 2011, and the major designers are making sure big brows get noticed. Of course, big eyebrows don’t mean messy ungroomed brows, so you still need to shape them, and keep the stray hairs at bay by tweezing regularly. You will, however, need to fill them in with an eyebrow pencil or brow powder to frame your face. An easy way to achieve a strong eyebrow is to keep your makeup natural by matching your foundation perfectly, and not wearing mascara. Use a brow comb to work brow gel over your eyebrows, and to keep the hair in place all day.
Nature-Inspired TrendSome trends never go out of style, like golden eye shadows used in combination with the autumnal colors; so you can definitely expect to see these colors this season. Eye shadow colors for these upcoming fall and winter months will be inspired by nature like orange, brown, red, yellow and coral. Use strong pigments to create these stunning looks, and then use golden shades to accent the other colors. Keep your makeup simple by not wearing too much black eyeliner with this look so that you’ll glow more, without the harsh color on your waterline.
Dark Makeup TrendTake your look in the opposite direction with this mysterious, dark, sexy makeup trend that will be popping up in the fall and winter. For this look, you’ll want to use eyeliner a lot more than the aforementioned trends, while using your eye shadow less. However, you don’t need to eliminate your eye shadow because you’ll still want to create the smoky eye this season; so put shadow in the outer corner of your eyes, as well as above your crease.
Choose an earth-toned shadow that is iridescent to cover the eyelid. Don’t forget to cover the black shadow with the iridescent shade as well, moving from the outer corners of your eyes in to toward your nose. On your lips, apply a nude color of lipstick or gloss; for your eyelashes, use mascara in combination with a lash brush for a spider effect.
Trends for your LipsEven though the fall and winter makeup trends draw most of the attention to your eyes, your lips will still make an impact on any look. Interestingly enough, it seems as though the designers are having a lover’s quarrel when it comes to lip makeup this year. Marc Jacobs is sticking with natural and simple makeup trends, while designers like Dolce&Gabbana go for a red lip. Whatever style you choose to try, be sure to match your eyes with your lips, and vice versa.
Wearable Makeup TrendThe models on the catwalks seem to have only one style of makeup, and it’s red lips with smoky eyes (how to: smoky eyes tutorial). This look is great for holiday parties, dates, or other important occasions; however, it isn’t good for everyday wear. During the day, you should opt for a bold lip color, and use less eye shadow on your eyelids. Use a plumping lip balm to make your lips look fuller, and if you use a colored lipstick, use a translucent powder to set the lip color for long-lasting wear. You can also use a lip liner to fill in your lips, and then apply a matching lipstick on your lips. Finally, be sure to fill in your brows for nice bold eyebrows, and then complete the look with mascara and a light blush.
Now that you know what all of the latest trends are for fall and winter 2011, you can try each look to find the one that works the best for you. And remember that the main key to having a good fall and winter makeup season is to have bold lips or eyes, but never at the same time.
Winter makeup requires extremely different approach than makeup for other season. Why? Because cold weather might be devastating for looks you work on for several hours. In this article we share some interesting tips for winter makeup, explaining what you should avoid in makeup and best alternatives for things that work in summer time but do not work in winter season.
Make Up Tips for Winter:
We hope you enjoyed our 12 Makeup Tips for Winter article and do not forget to share it if you like it with your friends on facebook or twitter. Enjoy winter!
- Choose good face cream to apply under your makeup, so it will last long.
- If you are going to be exposed to cold weather for longer than 20 minutes, do not use creams that may leave a moisture level just under your makeup, it may destroy your makeup. If you use moisturizer, make sure you choose light consistency moisturizer so skin of your face will absorb it fully before makeup application.
- You can use silicone based foundations in winter's cold days, they are good to work with.
- To party in winter, choose powder make up foundation, it's more resistant for temperature changes.
- If it's really cold outside, avoid liquid foundations, they do not like temperature changes. Read about makeup foundations.
- Mascara, eyeliners or lipliners should be waterproof – you will be sure that your makeup will stay on.
- Loose powder may cause skin dryness and give effect of cracked skin.
- Avoid cream blush in cold days – they contain vaseline derivatives substances, not recommended during cold days.
- When you choose blush or eyeshadows, pick mousse one and avoid eyeshadows that contain vaseline.
- Choose lipstick that contains beeswax instead of lip gloss.
- Avoid pink and red makeup colors in winter if you don't want skin redness effect.
- In winter time make up is not as much sensitive to cold as to drastic temperature changes. If you change environments from very cold to very hot (from outdoor to indoor), your makeup is in danger – thanks to intensified blood flow to the skin's surface.